The Victoria & Albert Museum's new exhibition, 'Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art', is a captivating exploration of the intersection between fashion and art, with a particular focus on the pioneering designer Elsa Schiaparelli. This exhibition is a testament to Schiaparelli's unique vision and her ability to push the boundaries of fashion, creating a lasting impact on the industry. The show is not just a display of her iconic designs but also a window into the creative collaborations she fostered with renowned artists of her time.
One of the most striking aspects of the exhibition is the intimate relationship Schiaparelli had with her artist friends. Her designs, such as the Skeleton dress, were not just a mere appropriation of Surrealist imagery but a result of a deep and fruitful collaboration. The dress, embroidered with ribcage bones, is a prime example of how Schiaparelli's designs were inspired by the artists' works. The accompanying sketches by Salvador Dalí, showing three female skeletons in different fashionable poses, further emphasize the conversation between the designer and the artist. This collaboration not only resulted in unique fashion pieces but also influenced Dalí's creation of the iconic lobster telephone.
The exhibition showcases over 400 objects, including 100 fashion ensembles and 50 artworks by renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau. The diversity of the collection highlights Schiaparelli's versatility and her ability to incorporate various artistic influences into her designs. Her innovative use of textiles, such as cellophane and woven glass, and her experimental methods to waterproof tweed suits, demonstrate her forward-thinking approach to fashion.
Schiaparelli's designs were not just about breaking rules; they were about creating a unique image and making a statement. Her work was attention-grabbing and stood out in a time when people were dressmaking and creating quiet, soft clothing. The embellished and colorful tailored jackets displayed in the exhibition are a testament to her bold and eye-catching style. These jackets were designed to be viewed at a dinner table, with the embroidery sitting right above the waistline, attracting attention and engaging the viewer.
The exhibition also highlights Schiaparelli's rivalry with Coco Chanel, despite their different approaches to fashion. Both designers were rule-breakers and had their own unique aesthetics and client bases. Schiaparelli's dedication and discipline, as recalled by her granddaughter, Marisa Berenson, further emphasize her commitment to her craft. Her rigor and creativity continue to inspire and challenge the fashion industry.
The legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli is not just about nostalgia but about continuity. The current Schiaparelli creative director, Daniel Roseberry, embraces the freedom and creativity that Schiaparelli's vision provides. He ensures that the brand remains true to its unique identity while pushing boundaries. The recent window installations at Harrods, inspired by Schiaparelli's keyhole emblem, further showcase the brand's ongoing influence and its ability to captivate audiences.
In conclusion, the V&A's exhibition 'Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art' is a must-see for fashion enthusiasts and art lovers alike. It not only celebrates Schiaparelli's groundbreaking work but also highlights the enduring impact of her collaborations with artists. Her designs continue to inspire and challenge, proving that fashion and art can indeed become one, creating something truly extraordinary.
